It's very simple. Start with the introduction below and work your way down. Click on one of the topics below to begin. We suggest you start from the top.

Just about anyone who has obtained or attempted to obtain a line of credit in the past few years has probably heard about credit scoring and/or credit repairing. How many of you have been told "You have great credit scores", or "if your credit score were 15 points higher, your rate would be better by at least a 1/4 point"? The answer to that is probably most of you.

We in the credit repair industry became more aware of "credit scoring models", as they are called, and it goes back as early as 1994. The use of credit scoring models especially in the mortgage industry came about when the major secondary market players, also known as Freddie Mac and Fannie Mae, began the development of automated underwriting programs. They had been in use for a long time for the auto industry and the credit card companies.

Early creators of automated underwriting programs felt that if someone could go to a Mercedes dealership at 10 am and drive off the showroom floor just an hour later with a $100,000 car (still more expensive than most of the homes are in many parts of the country), they should be able to obtain a mortgage loan the very same way. The logic in this is obvious... after all, automobiles are a rolling stock, which means, they can disappear, they depreciate in value and usually folks like you don't usually live in them. Homes are attached to the foundation below them, they usually appreciate in value and people live in them. With that logic in mind, the credit industry should make home buying easier and accessible to everyone.

In theory this sounds wonderful, but it is only in the last few years that we have seen some relief from the mounts of paperwork that go into lending files, and of course the refined credit scoring models. Still, there is plenty of progress to be made and the industry is slowly grinding in that direction.

If you are reading this then you probably already know that most creditors use credit reporting agencies to obtain all the information they need on a person if they’ve applied for any type of line of credit. However, there are two levels of credit reporting agencies. There are the three major credit bureaus for credit and background information. They are Experian, Equifax and of course TransUnion. When someone attempts to obtain credit, the creditor immediately reports the payment history to these one or all three of the credit bureaus. This usually occurs monthly but may be done on a more irregular basis. These credit bureaus simply accept and record the information as it comes in electronically and they are not responsible for any inaccuracies.

The credit bureaus and other agencies also keep and maintain additional background information on anyone in the country who has a Social Security number or any other information used to identify that person. Other agencies may include the D.P.S., the FBI, the Medical Information Board, the local law enforcement agencies, the county recorders for each county (also known as public records), etc. Believe or not, even the mortgage industry has a central information repository for mortgagors and the mortgage companies that have been involved in fraudulent practices in the making of home loans.

If you have ever applied for a line of credit, you know that your lender requests a copy of your credit report from all three of the credit bureaus using a company that provides that information. This company is located either locally or regionally. This company pulls your credit report with a one click button electronically,

Along with your information, the credit report company pulling your credit gets a numerical score. This score reflects your credit history, ability to save, employment and so forth. If you haven’t heard about it this is called your FICO scores, which was put in place by the Fair-Isaacs Company several years ago. What people don't know is that, with credit information poured onto their credit reports almost every day and their credit scores can change from day to day. That's why you can apply for a credit card with one company today and have a credit score of 720, then apply with another credit card company a couple of days later and guess what? Your score can be either lower or higher, depending on the information available at the credit bureaus’ information repository.

The truth no one really knows how your credit scores are assessed. Due to the erroneous levels of information being reported to peoples' credit reports, pressure was put on Congress to make the credit bureaus more accountable for any inaccuracies of the any information reported AND to disclose what goes into their scoring system.

Why is all of this important to me? The lending companies have moved toward a risk-free pricing plan. This means that the higher someone's credit scores, the less documentation they must provide a creditor to prove that they are of creditworthiness. Also, that means their interest rate and any other fees a borrower has to pay will be solely based on their credit scores of their FICO.

The system maybe unjust to some, but is a blessing for those of you who keep impeccable credit scores. It is one way that great credit can be rewarded. In past years, we have seen a dramatic drop in documentation requirements while risk-free rates and fees have become more and more common.

If you’ve recently pulled your credit report then realized that you were unhappy with what has been previously reported, you should take these very easy steps to correct the inaccuracies reported. In addition, there are some extra steps you can take to improve your credit scores, especially if you plan to apply for a credit card or a home loan sometime soon. While we plan to go into the correcting inaccuracies in your credit report in ((PART TWO)), we can offer you a few simple hints as to how to become a pro in improving your credit scores without leaving your home.

The first step is very obvious. Make your payments on time. secondly, stop applying for new credit cards or unnecessary lines of credit. Each time you sign and mail out a new credit card offer, or start an extra department store account to get an additional 20% off discount, a simple inquiry is sent to the bureaus which will result in a reduced credit score. Thirdly, you must maintain your line of credit balances. try keeping your balances at a level that is 30% - 40% of your maximum credit limit. In That basically means that if your credit limit is $2,000, try keeping your balance at $600 - $800. If you consolidate all of your credit cards onto just one, your credit will be hurt, especially if the balance to that account is at the top limit (Maxed Out). The fourth and last is, if you get into a dispute with the cable company and the amount in dispute isn't a large amount, pay it off and save your credit score. Having collections, even if they are small amounts, will negatively affect your credit scores.

The Credit Bureaus are simply there to keep records, nothing more

Don’t be intimidated, they simply keep a record of who has granted you credit, when credit was granted, how much line of credit you were given and of course whether you paid it on time or not. When you want to obtain loans, credit cards, financing for a home or car, leases of any type, apartments or townhomes and sometimes even your employment, the institution trying to grant a line of credit will check your credit history.

Credit Bureaus are usually paid by the institution that requests your credit report. Most of the time, they pass on that fee to you in the form of an application fee or an annual membership fee.

Remember this; none of the Credit Bureaus have any legal power over you. They are not run by financial institutions, law enforcement agencies or the government; so do not be intimidated by their representatives. They are the Credit Bureaus because they own databases capable of storing credit large amounts of information on anyone in the America. Because of the enormous amounts of data on their computers, their method of storing information is very basic and filled with too many errors. Since the bureaus have made many mistakes in the past, just about every Federal Law regarding credit scoring and credit info is in your favor.

Credit Bureaus’ Contact Information

Equifax, Inc.
P.O. Box 740241
Atlanta, GA 30374
---(800) 685-1111---
http://www.equifax.com

EXPERIAN
P.O. Box 2002
Allen, TX 75013
---(888) 397-3742---
http://www.experian.com

Trans Union Corporation
P.O. Box 1000
Chester, PA 19022
---(800) 888-4213---
http://www.transunion.com

When submitting information to a credit bureau, the only obligation you have is to submit a copy of your credit report with your social security number. your name, and a legal address (P.O. Box is a also considered a legal address). It may benefit you to get a P.O. Box to avoid harassing letters from your creditors. Did you know that credit bureaus own many of the collection agencies out there?

Don't give the credit bureaus more information than needed!

Credit bureaus can and have the right to to a copy of your social security card, only give them a front copy and NOT the back. They can also request a copy of a bill or something with your current address on it if it is indeed different from what is on your credit report. Only send them a utility bill that has your address. Make sure NOT to send a copy of your driver's license even if they request it. Remember that these credit bureaus are in the information gathering business who will probably turn around and sell your information, and not just to creditors, but also for to promotional companies.

Before you go any further, now you must obtain copies of your up-to-date credit reports. If you don't already have them, you should use the sample credit report request letter on the following section as a guide to requesting your copy of your credit reports from all 3 major credit bureaus.

Credit Bureaus are obligated by law to send you a copy of your credit report, and it should cost you nothing if you have recently been denied credit. Also, They are obligated to providing you with a free copy every year. We strongly advice against having someone other than you get your credit report on your behalf because this will cause an unwanted inquiry on your credit report which makes it look as if you are applying for credit from some lending institute.

If you find yourself in a rush and am unable to wait 3 to 7 business days to obtain a copy of your credit report, just look online for and perform a Google search for Credit Bureau/s. If the Credit Bureau you are trying to contact has a local office or a local affiliate, then go there in person and obtain your credit report without any further delay.

When you obtain your credit report, there will be an explanation page instructing you on how to read your credit report. Every single credit agency report reads different from the other. Now, the very next step is crucial. You have to find any and all derogatory items on your report.

Look for any and all collection accounts. On your Equifax credit report they are usually listed at the very end of your credit report, Trans Union spreads the information throughout your report. Experian is our favorite because it gives summary paragraph explanation for all of your accounts. In the collections section on your credit report you may find a collector's account ID/Number and or name that you do not recognize. Those are usually the easiest ones to start out with.

Here's a sample of a credit report request that we recommend using:

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January 1, 2009
The Credit Agency
P.O. Box 6020
Somewhere in, TX 75081-5030

To whom it may concern,

I would like for you to send me a copy of my credit report. Here's my up-to-date information:

John W. Smith
1111 Beautiful Lane
City in, TX 75075

I have resided at the address above for the last four years.
I was born on 8/16/1972
My Social Security number is 444-333-1212

Thank You,





______________________
Sign here

Put your name here

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IMPORTANT: Along with this letter, you should include proof of residency (the address where you live). Provide them with a phone bill or a current utility bill. The copy of your bill should include your name and current street address. You have to also include a copy of your Social Security Card (FRONT ONLY, never include the back copy).

The following techniques will assist in repairing your credit. It should be completed with all three Credit Bureaus.

In this section we will teach you how to remove any negative credit items from your credit report. The strategies used here are also called: Credit Repair.

Keep in mind that these strategies are the same used by credit repair companies and attorneys. An attorney can charge you up to $5,000 to perform these simple services on your behalf. Since credit repair companies and credit repair attorneys won't always perform it properly, we will share with you all the heavily guarded secrets of how to be one step ahead of your creditors!

Things Credit Bureaus do not want you to know

Each of the items present on your credit file has to be backed up with some proof or it has to be deleted from your credit report. When a credit bureau is unable to verify the item in dispute when an investigation is open, it has to be removed from your credit file whether it’s accurate or not.

All negative entries on your credit report may be contested or denied at any given time. By law, the credit bureau has to investigate and if the item is not verified/proven within a "30 day period", it has be deleted from your credit report.

When items are challenged, they can be deleted by accident. Consumers often tell us that they experience computer mistakes.

Often times a creditor doesn't re-verify within their 30 day window or in most cases the credit bureau may simply be too busy to prove your dispute. Those are means for immediate deletion of the item in dispute.

The newer an item in dispute is, the easier it is to re-verify. The possibility of records not existing after 1 to 2 years is strong and not too farfetched.

Repair your credit with these easy steps

Get copies of all three of your credit reports.

Go over the 3 reports and highlight the negative credit items.

Start Disputing any and all negative accounts with the designated credit bureau.

All disputed items must be corrected or deleted. Items that have not been re-verified or confirmed must be removed.

Try to negotiate with your creditors and/or your collection agencies.

Following negotiations and making payments on your account, creditors should change any negative items to positive or delete them all together.

Clearly point out the items you are wanting to dispute and please do not use provided dispute forms by the bureau. Using these forms cause less of a delay by credit bureaus you are requesting clarification from. (Remember, we need those delays)

Never confirm any account if their information is inaccurate.

Never use any letterheads as that will raise Red Flags we cannot afford to have raised.

Never Xerox a premade dispute letter (Be original).

Try to send your disputes during the busiest time of year. For Example: Beginning to the 15th of November usually causes a huge verification delay because of Thanksgiving. Also, Christmas time for your creditor and/or the credit bureaus can also cause them a huge delay before they have a chance to investigate within the 30 day period.

Your rights are your rights and they are very important!

All Federal Laws are on your side. This means that you have the upper hand. The law we are referring to is the Federal Fair Credit Reporting Act.

>> This law partially says that when and if you dispute an item present in your credit report, the Credit Bureaus have to verify its accuracy with the reporting creditor of the negative item within a 30 day period. When the verification is not completed within 30 days, then it has to be deleted.

>> Congress has passed The Fair Credit Reporting Act when they felt that we deserve a second chance. The FCRA grants you the right to update, correct, amend as well as voice your side of the story to the credit bureaus. However, these laws will not work unless you instigate and initiate an investigation.

>> The FCRA outlines guidelines which every credit bureau and every one of your creditors has to abide by when reporting to your credit report, also giving you, the consumer, your rights.

>> This now brings us to the crucial step of the actual work we need to do on your credit report. Get defensive and caring about every negative item on your credit report. Don't forget, the credit bureaus are nothing more than privately owned companies that sell your info. They are not your colleagues. You didn't authorized any of your creditors to start selling your information and you are not getting part of the profit revenues they are getting.

Your rights under “Fair Credit Reporting Act” summarized in 6 points

You have the every right to contest any inaccuracies on your credit report whenever you like.

Credit bureaus have to reinvestigate any item you decide to challenge free of charge.

Credit bureaus have to reinvestigate within a 30 day period or a reasonable amount of time. That usually means within no more than 30 days unless of course the bureau send you a notification of delay (so keep accurate records).

If any of the credit bureaus find any errors in the any disputed items, then they have to correct or delete the item in dispute from your credit report immediately.

If a credit bureau does not or cannot confirm your disputed item within the 30 day period, they must then delete that item from your credit report immediately.

You have every right to include your Consumer Statement (your side of the story) or your opinion of the situation. If you decide to dispute any inaccuracies on your credit file and it is indeed confirmed by the lender as accurate, the credit bureau must include your original explanation of your disputed item, as long as you requested it, in your credit file. Be brief and put in the effort to limit your explanation to 100 words or less.

Important: Do not allow a credit repair company to send a dispute on your behalf. If the dispute letter is sent by someone other than yourself, the credit bureaus will know that you have hired a company or someone else to perform credit repair. They know the tricks and this will not work as well as you sending it directly.

Since Credit Bureau are not in the business of lending you any money, they are not concerned whether the information stored on their systems are accurate. Remember, they are paid to strictly store information.

Consumers that work on their credit reports often say that their dispute letters have been overlooked by credit bureaus. That is true because the credit bureaus attempt to discourage consumers like you from repairing their credit by making it a very long and difficult process. Some consumers may report that even if they have proof an item does not belong to them; its removal can sometimes take 3 or 4 dispute letters. If a credit bureau says they have confirmed or verified a disputed item, it can feel as if all they have done is verify that it exists in their system. THIS IS NOT CONSIDERED SUFFICIENT PROOF because they have to provide more proof, so keep reading on.

Send your credit dispute letter by only by CERTIFIED RETURN RECEIPT because that drastically increases your chances for a response from the credit bureau by leaps and bounds. This cannot be performed on the first attempt. Write down the dates you sent the credit dispute letters and when you expect to get a response from the credit bureau. If you did not receive a response to your dispute letter 30 to 37 days from the date you mailed in your inquiry, get on the charge and attack that credit bureau with a threatening certified return receipt letter of an updated copy of your credit report clearly demanding that the disputed items be completely deleted. Let's just say that the credit bureaus don’t reply within 30 days, it is probably that the information was "wrong/inaccurate", or it simply "unable to be verified". In any case, the Fair Credit Reporting Act states that these items have to be deleted immediately.

Consumers find that the alimentation of any negative items on their credit reports is possible by following this step by step guide of disputing negative items over and time again. As many creditors don't put the time in defending negative items, eventually you can achieve great credit repair results by your creditor's lack of response to the credit bureau’s request of verification of the negative items. This occurs commonly. The creditors will not always put in the time to bother with paperwork and that is to your advantage. We will go into this on a deeper level at a later point.

When you receive your updated credit report carefully review it to insure that they have dropped the negative items and to see if anything else has changed. Many consumers attempting to repair their credit report have found that while disputing a negative item, and for no apparent reason, another negative item or two simply disappeared. Usually some type of progress is made each time you challenge a negative credit item, but don’t get discouraged if you do not get the results you are looking for each time. Remember, credit bureaus would like you to quit bothering them. If you aren't disputing your report, they can legally continue to sell it as information for profit.

After receiving a response, repeat the same process again and again. Many consumers who successfully repaired their credit report say they have turned down on a judgment or bankruptcy and received a verification letter from the credit bureaus stating that the item was a public record... They were also denied a second and a third time, but finally a ray of light, the credit bureau suddenly decided to delete the bankruptcy from the credit report. So, no matter what, discouragement is not an option Persistence and patience are crucial to an a successful credit repair process.

Creditors who submitted a negative item to the credit bureaus are the ones responsible to provide verification information on a disputed item. These creditors usually don't have the proper records nor the staff power to verify every disputes that comes in within 30 days. So now you know how easy it is to remove negative information from your credit report. The only way to find out if this will work for you is try it yourself. However, our statistics have shown that certain items are easier to clean than other ones.

Easy items to dispute and Remove

>> Any item older than 2 years
>> Discharged bankruptcies
>> Inquiries
>> Charge-offs
>> Car Repos
>> Late payments
>> Any Account that was late but is now paid off

These items are usually easy to remove because when you open a dispute on a more aged account or a paid or charged off account, the creditor is simply less concerned with the account and just doesn't keep it on record. More that likely that creditor is unable to locate the necessary information to verify the disputed item. Whether the account was seriously past due or not doesn't make a difference as long as it was paid offid off. The creditor will not waste time to verify the disputed item since they already fot their money.

Difficult items to dispute

>> Recent Bankruptcies
>> Any Account that is currently past due>> Judgments
>> State Tax & IRS Liens
>> Current collection accounts

They are more difficult because your creditors keep these accounts in their current file system and they want you to pay them. This makes it easy for them to verify disputed information and keep the disputed item on your credit report. But, it is certainly worth a shit.

Important: It is 100% legal for you to dispute any item on your credit report even if you know that it is correct. You are simply testing the waters. You are checking to see if your creditors have maintained the appropriate records to verify the disputed negative item. Remember, you simply have a very bad memory and forgot if the negative account on your credit report is really yours.

All Federal Laws require the Credit Bureaus to verify any disputed items. If they are unwilling or unable to verify your dispute, it must be removed from your credit report.

Disputing negative items on your credit report requires identifying the negative items that you want removed.

Once you have outlined which items you wish to dispute, DO NOT complete any of the “Dispute Forms” that the Credit Bureaus sent with copies of your credit report. It is simply more effective to follow the outlines of the sample letters we included in with this tutorial.

Don’t forget to include only a copy of your credit report. You should keep the original for your records. Highlight all the items you are wanting to dispute. Mail the dispute forms to the address listed on the credit report.

In order to dispute an inquiry on your credit report, you should simply write that you have never applied for credit with that institution.

Make a copy of your dispute letter for your records and do not forget to send it by “Certified and Return Receipt Mail”. Mail your dispute form to the address on your credit report. Repeat the process above for each and every negative item that you want deleted.

After you review your updated credit report and find that most or all the negative items have been deleted, you should now focus your energy on building positive credit. Good credit will almost always outweigh a couple of negative items on your credit report.

This tutorial is very effective in repairing any negative credit information that was supposedly verified as accurate after your dispute.

Important: Always remember that you do not want a credit repair company to file a dispute on your behalf and if a dispute letter is sent from someone other than yourself, then the credit bureau will know that you hired someone to perform your credit repair. They know the tricks and this will not work as well as you sending it directly.

If there are any negative items that you want removed from your credit report, such as a charge off, collection account or even a bankruptcy, you probably want to write that this item is does NOT belong to you and you want it removed immediately.

If the account in dispute has been completely paid off, but was severely past due at one point or another, DO NOT say that account does not belong to you. Instead, write that it is indeed your account but was NEVER past due at any point. You also need it to reflect that it was always current and on time.

A very extremely powerful tool to use:

This technique is only used by attorneys. It would be very expensive to hire an attorney to do this on your behalf. However, by following these simple instructions you'll achieve similar results as an attorney without paying those high fees.

If the credit bureau was successful in verifying any disputed information as accurate or correct, it would then remain on your credit report. So you will have to contact the creditor who is reporting the negative information. The creditor or institute that reported the negative item is usually listed on the bottom or left of your credit report. If you don’t see their phone number, look online or call directory assistance in their city and ask for their phone number. Now, call and ask them to mail you written proof and any documentation that this is indeed your account, since you do not believe that the account belonged to you at any point.

Just about every creditor and collections agency uses computers to store data about borrowers and they usually throw out signed contracts along with any other original documents. This makes it simple for these credit companies to store and organize information but makes it near impossible to prove the account is indeed your account and not just another mistake.

Upon your request, Federal Law requires all creditors must provide you with a written document proving that the account in question is indeed your account. By written proof we mean a copy of the contract you have signed with the original creditor. As we described previously, you are stored on their computer system and chances are really good that they have rid themselves of any proof that ties you up with that account.

The only creditors that usually keep record of proof are the courts (Unpaid Tax Liens, Recent Bankruptcies, Unpaid Child Support and Unpaid Judgments).

Again, Federal Laws are on your side. If you claim an account is not yours while the creditor is unable to provide written proof that the account is indeed yours, they have to immediately remove the account from your credit report and cease any and all collections activity. If they do not provide written proof that it’s your account, there is one of two ways to remove the items in dispute (See Steps 1 & 2 in the next section).

Important: Only give a creditor 8 days tops to provide your with the proof you requested to your mailbox (4 days to find it and only 4 days for mail delivery). If it takes them any longer, they are probably unable to provide you with proof you should start taking the action below. If the creditor is unable to supply you with all the written proof that the account belongs to you, go to Step 4.

Get an edge above your creditors

Get on the phone and contact the Attorney General where your creditor is located. You can either obtain their phone number from directory assistance or you can search for it online. Simply tell them that you this creditor is damaging your credit and they are reporting an account that does not belong to you. Tell them that you have requested proof of account ownership and they do not have it. They will then contact the creditor in question and have that account immediately removed from your credit report. This is a legal service that is free to your and almost guarantees that they will get your negative item in dispute removed.

If you want to turn a quick profit from your creditor then take them to a small claims court. This can be easily accomplished by calling your county courthouse and asking about the proper procedure to follow to get a court date. It is easy and you can do it all by yourself. You'll be asked to complete a simple form outlining your complaint. If you want, you may write that you wish to have the item in dispute removed from your credit report since it is not yours and the creditor has no proof that the account is yours. After you receiving a court appearance date, mark it in your calendar and be certain to attend at the place, time, and date scheduled. When in court, bring along the return receipts from when you sent the registered mail you used for the disputes along with a copy of your phone bill when you called. Sue the creditor for your emotional stress and expenses. Remember, if they are unable to provide you or the court with proof that this account is indeed yours, you will win and the account will be removed from your credit report! If the creditor you are suing is located out of state and does not show in court, you are the winner by default.

Hint: we have yet to hear of any creditor actually making an appearance to a court date. They are way too busy to waste their time or money on 1 person when they have other people to service instead. You also have the option of contacting a lawyer in your area for a free consultation about what your rights are in reference to your situation.

If the creditor is somehow able to come forward with the written proof you requested, offer to settle your debt for 15 cents on the $dollar that is of course if you have the money to do so. If you don't have the money, please skip to Step 5. If you owe $1,000, offer them $150. If they refuse your offer then tell them that you are going to file Bankruptcy and they won’t get a dime. This will defiantly get their attention and open them up some more to negotiate your debt. What you agree to pay them should much less than what you originally owed. Never agree to pay any penalties or interest charges on collection or past due accounts.

If you unable to come up with the money to make the payment arrangement, start over and back to Step 1 of this section. Remember, the laws are on your side and you are legally allowed to dispute any negative items on your credit report EVERY MONTH. You have every right to repeat this process as many times as you like until the credit bureaus give up on verifying the item you are disputing then remove it. The creditors simply do not have the manpower to handle the tons of credit disputes they receive daily, so if you stay persistent, eventually they will give up or slip and your item may be removed.

At times the credit bureaus will reply by stating that they have already verified all of your information as accurate. If this is the case, write back stating that it is Federal Law that they must verify all of your disputes and that you WILL sue them for $4,500 for each and every dispute that they do not properly handle. Once they are aware that you know your rights, they'll become cooperative immediately.

Extremely Important: If at any point you agree to a payment arrangement with a creditor, only do so only under one simple condition: That before you send them any money, the creditor has to mail you a clear written agreement that they will report your account as never late, current, and paid off. Otherwise, tell them that you would rather it stay on your credit report and it is simply not be worth paying.

If you contact your creditor by phone always ask for their name is and make note of it. This puts you in more control and helps keep your records accurate.

"Hello, My name is John Smith, who am I speaking with? Yes, the reason I am calling you is to speak to someone about my account"

Ok, here's my account number________________________

If you need my social security number it is __________________________

Now, your creditor is reviewing your account and knows that your account is in trouble. Remember to keep your composure thought your conversation and try to be down to earth, (even if you feel like yelling inside).

Use active listening when dealing with your creditor but DO NOT give them any information.

You are calling them to find out what your balance is as well as penalties, the interest owed, and the past due amount.

Pointers to stick to and return to during your conversation with the creditor:

>> "My intent is to satisfy this debt"
>> "My financial situation has taken a dip since this account was started"
>> "Please work with me on this so I can make payments on this that I can actually afford"
>> "I don't want to file a bankruptcy so instead I would rather do it this way"
>> "I am really putting in the effort to satisfy my debt"
>> "This situation I am in is only temporary"

Your goals should be outlined as follows:

>> Get your interest stopped or at least lowered.
>> Stop any and all penalties.
>> Establish a payment plan you are comfortable with and that you can maintain realistically.

You should always keep your cool and include the words "please" and "thank you" as part of your conversation!

If at any point you feel as if you lost control or simply lost, just excuse yourself and say:

"Excuse me (person’s name), may call you back in a little while? May I have your extension and phone number. I've got a little emergency to take care of. I will need to call you back in a bit. When's a good time for you?"

To Download a letter please click on the WORD or PDF icon.


Credit Repair Letters to Collection Agencies:

General Dispute Letter to a Collections Agency
Specific Dispute Letter to a Collections Agency



Credit Repair Letters to Creditors:

Letter to Negotiate a Settlement (General)
Letter to Negotiate a Settlement with the Utility Companies
Settlement with Creditors
Dispute Related to Social Security Number



Credit Repair Letters to Credit Bureaus:

Letter of Dispute of a collection
After receiving NO Response from the Credit Bureau
Disputing specific inquiries and items
Request to reinvestigate an item that is still on your report
Answer letter to the credit bureau's "More information Request"